
The net result here is that the relay will remain engaged, connecting the systems to each other. When both are active, like when you drive down the road in daytime while solar power is also working to charge the batteries, both systems will be active. when the engine is off, this lets any of the devices which can charge the house battery also provide current to keep the engine battery charged. The Amp-L-Start has similar functions to determine that voltage levels indicate an active battery charging source, but are connected in a reverse direction. the bottom line of the above is that the LTV original system operates the relay to let the engine charge the house battery only when it is providing charging, and disconnects to separate then system when it is not. Lead-acid battery chemistry is responsible for the voltage levels during discharge and charge cycles.
BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY SOLENOID DRIVER
The resultant flickering of lights would alert the driver of the system overload. When the chassis voltagegoes13.3 volts again, the relay will again close in about two seconds to retry and charge the coach battery. This might happen when the alternator is not able to supply sufficient current to all of the loads. When the ignition switch is turned off, the relay will open immediately.If the voltage should fall12 volts for more than two seconds while the ignition is on, the relay will drop out to feed all the alternators available output to the chassis battery to keep the engine running. When this voltage goes13.3 volts for approximately 12 seconds, as happens when the engine is running normally(normal alternator output voltage is approximately 14.4 volts), it will close the isolator relay providing charging current to the coach battery. The unit operates as an isolator by sensing the level of voltage on the chassis 12 volt system. Good luck the first screw removal is always the hardest, but once you start making modifications it can become addictive! If you do some Advanced Searches with Keywords you will discover lots of threads with information. It's out of the wat so no real reason to remove it, but if you want to it would be easy to pry off the metal surface. The Isolator Delay Relay device is stuck to the seat base interior wall so I just cut the wires and abandoned it in place. I used the micro rachet with a Robertson (square head) bit to remove the old Isolator Solenoid and I then used a single screw to reinstall the Blue Sea in about the same spot. I did not remove the seat, I could do everything needed from the seat box opening.
BATTERY ISOLATOR RELAY SOLENOID INSTALL
When I did my BlueSea installation, I was able to remove the old Solenoid and install the Blue Sea through the seat base opening with the help of this micro rachet. It just does it's job and sends a small trickle charge your chassis battery occasionally to keep it topped up when ever there is a charging source going to the house batteries (Solar, Shore/Generator Power). Even though it has little status lights you never really look at them. It's really an install it and forget it kind of device. I went further and added a new panel with a voltage gauge and 2 position momentary switch so I could always read the house and chassis battery voltage with the push of a button. For an easy installation of a Trik-l-start just make your 3 wire connections and leave the Trik-l-start laying inside the seat base, or use double sided tape it to mount it inside of the seat base, or with a little more work mount it to the plastic panel with the awning switches. You'll see the Isolator Solenoid right inside. Then just remove your Awning switches from the Passenger seat base, lift the vinyl skirt, and you'll see a gray plastic panel that just unclips to expose a larger opening. Before doing any work remember to disconnect the negative cable from both the chassis and house battery to disconnect the 12v power sources. It is pretty easy to reach the Isolator Solenoid after you remove the plastic seat base opening cover. Like you I just didn't want to go through all the hassle of removing the seat. I have installed a Trik-L-Start and then when the Isolator Solenoid failed, replaced the Isolator Solenoid, Isolator Relay Delay, and Trik-L-Start with a Blue Sea ML-ACR, and I never removed the passenger seat.


First try just using the large opening in the passenger seat base, you can always remove the seat if you find you need too.
